Although its re-emergence may seem completely premature, the days of ‘Indie Sleaze’ are undoubtedly, back with a vengeance. Simply a decade on, the teenagers of today are proving the cyclicality of fashion, as the brash and unconfined style of Indie Sleaze appears to be making a poised comeback, in all its grungy excellence. But what is ‘Indie Sleaze’?
A movement fuelled by a nostalgic desire for genuine enjoyment and authentic freedom in fashion, the messy, rockstar-chic style of the early 2010s, now dubbed ‘Indie Sleaze’ was characterised by bold, unapologetic maximalism and took inspiration from the carefree aesthetic of 90s rockstars. This era of fashion marked a transition from the ostentatious style of the early 2000s to a new couture - one that celebrated unconventional fashion, exemplified by the forerunners of the ‘Indie Sleaze’ movement: Alexa Chung and Mary-Kate Olsen, the It-Girls of hipster chic who sported ripped fishnets, smudged eyeliner and dangerously mini shorts. Besides the fashion cycle’s continuous need to reinvent itself by the revival of past-loved styles, the ‘Indie Sleaze’ era of fashion has an undeniably wider appeal than simply clothes. It embodies a new outlook on life. An outlook that understands self-expression and the liberty of non-confinement to what’s considered ‘trendy’.
Wild patterns. Dishevelled hair. Leopard print everything. The ‘Indie Sleaze’ look of the 2010s was nothing short of unrestrained fun, with the umbrella term describing the youth social movement that emerged from major cities such as New York City, London and Los Angeles; circulated from a new era of blog culture that had reckless teenagers plastering their flash-photographed parties on MySpace. Characterised by an affordable and spontaneous take on the vintage styles of the 70s and 80s, ‘Indie Sleaze’ incorporated a range of lethargic yet maximalist clothes, with lamé leggings, ballet flats, band t-shirts and fedoras all defining the genre-bending style, accompanied by smudged eyeliner, grown out roots and seemingly unbrushed hair. By 2012, ‘Indie Sleaze’ had determined itself as not only a wardrobe choice, but a culture, one that emulated a sense of nonchalance that can only be described as alien when compared to today’s hyper-critical and pedantic stance on beauty standards. But who were the forerunners of ‘Indie Sleaze’? The messy, yet meticulously curated look, was mainly sported by carefree models like Alexa Chung and Mary-Kate Olsen who were credited for their influence on 2010s fashion - being continuously photographed by relentless paparazzi in effortlessly grungy outfits. However, it would be unfair not to mention the true developers of the unkempt look: Indie rock bands. MGMT. The Strokes. The Velvet Underground. Within these groups, a cultural nostalgia for past fashion was evident, donned in leather, plaid and ironic slogan tees, the indie rockers of the 2010s highlighted the youth’s yearning to return to an insouciant time, one that was not defined by expensive clothing or perfect hair.
But is a full-blown ‘Indie Sleaze’ renaissance underway? We know by now that fashion has proved itself to be cyclical, evidenced by the rapid progressions of trends, as today’s teens snap up TikTok-viral garments, only to be retired to charity shops two months later. Yet, the revival of ‘Indie Sleaze’ is hard to ignore. A viral TikTok by trend predictor, Mandy Lee suggests there is an ‘obscene amount of evidence’ suggesting the aesthetic is making a comeback, using the example of Bella Hadid photographed wearing wired headphones. But the proof goes much further than that: Addison Rae took to Instagram with a photo shoot on her iPhone 4 and in the high-fashion world, Celine’s Fall 2023 runway show featured the perfect amalgamation of ‘Indie Sleaze’ as models strutted in leopard blazers, messy layers and leather bomber jackets whilst Gucci’s 2020 autumn/winter collection showed an eerie resemblance to the street style of the 2010s. The revival of this dishevelled aesthetic comes at an unprecedented time, contrasting entirely with the ‘Clean Girl’ look that has dominated 2023, distinguished by intricate makeup, perfectly slicked-back buns and flawlessly plain outfits. Perhaps, the resurgence of ‘Indie Sleaze’ marks a newfangled desire for freedom in fashion, one that is not weighed down by critical beauty standards and instead celebrates the liberty of self-expression through fashion.